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November 4th, 2007

Epping to Ongar

  • Nov. 4th, 2007 at 12:58 PM
south ken
The rain lashed our train as we rattled our way beyond the confines of the M25, chattering amongst ourselves.  The only other occupant of the carriage was sandwiched between K and C, and eventually we had to apologise for the Famous Five outing she had accidentally stumbled into.  Shivering in the inclement weather, the gallant troupe huddled together against the rain on Epping Station, the far terminus of the Central Line.  We're here to ride up and don a heritage railway and hopefully to see a bit of the forest, but the weather is not making tramping about outside a pleasant prospect.




 

A plaque on the wall outside the tation marks this as the start of the Essex Way.  K is a little suspicious of 'countryside', being at heart a little street urchin with grubby knees. C, being an Essex lad, offers to show K 'the Essex Way' up close and personal...




 

Our lovely old bus took us up to North Weald to meet the train.  Until the mid 90's the Central Line went out as far as Ongar on a branch line from Epping but was closed due to falling numbers making it uncommercial. However thanks to a local railway group the line has been re-opened as a heritage railway operating only on Sundays and Bank Holidays to trundle people back and forth for no particular reason other than you can, and the view out the window is pretty.  Today staff were dressed in Halloween silliness with the usual crop of witches, monsters, reapers and knives through the head.  Little paper and glitter bats flutterd in the carriages and  carved pumpkins  spelt out the station names.  Real ale was available on board, and I'd brought pastries and satsumas for a picnic atmosphere as we headed through the autumnal forest, beautiful even in the drizzle.



We rattled back to Epping, stopping 800m from where we'd got off the tube.  There are plans to build a picnic area here and possibly to connect up to the station at Epping.  Currently the train just stops for a bit, then starts on the way back to North Weald, and on to Ongar in the other direction.  We get out at Ongar, the furthest one could get.  Our train is only going to be in the station for a few minutes so it's either five minutes in Ongar or an hour.  We decide to have a look around, even in the rain, and maybe find a pub.  After all, when are we next going to be out beyond the city limits?  We stride off to find a rather lovely church, actual Tudor buildings now the home of a balloon shop, and a closed suburban town enjoying a quiet Sunday afternoon indoors in the warm. 

The chap manning the railway shop was expressive in his disgust at just how much the bloody pumpkins had cost this year.  Sainsbury's should sponser them perhaps?  But the pumpkins do add that final touch of Halloween jollity.





I suspect vampires live here, guarded by human slaves. 



My shots of Ongar itself were dark so, for a different perspective on the day [info]failing_angel has a set up at flick here:

After a short sojourn in the pub we took the train back to North Weald and the bus back to Epping.  On board, we asked the easiest way to get into the forest itself and the driver offered to drop us off on route back to North Weald for the next train out.  However, time was marching on for me, and I had a different connection to make at Paddington, so would need to leave my companions to kick through the leaves, play on pretend speeder bikes and build witches houses without me.  However, we only really processed this information only once the bus was underway, meaning I was heading the wrong way for a long wait at North Weald.   So taking advantage of the Routemasters unique advantage over modern buses, one last time, I waited till the bus was stopped at traffic lights and blithely hoped off, waving goodbye as I trundle back down the hill to Epping station. God I miss those buses!

I did briefly toy with the idea of taking an Epping train all the way to West Ruislip which is the furthest one can travel on the London Underground in a single jouney - 34 miles taking 81 minutes, but it would be cutting it close to get back from West Ruislip to Paddington. I had time, but perhaps notthat much time, so instead contented myself with collecting one more station, Loughton, before the homeward journey




All told, I shouldn't have got so cold and wet out in the rain, but a lovely day of talking nonsense with friends on a silly Sunday adventure into the windy wilds of Essex.  Two proper stations collected, and two closed stations, last seen on the official map here in 1986.

The miracle of Loughton.

  • Nov. 4th, 2007 at 12:59 PM
south ken
I'd had to part from my fellow adventurers far too early in the afternoon, leaving them to play in the forest while I headed back to Paddington and the evening train to Cornwall.  I did have rather more time than I needed to cross town, but frustratingly not quite enough for a proper exploration of one of the largest green spaces in the country.  With this feeling that my adventuring had been cut prematurely short, and without a proper goodbye as I'd leapt from the bus carrying me in the wrong direction, I felt slightly cheated of the autumnal splendour I'd hoped to go find. However, the weather was horrible, so perhaps I was just missing a dismal traipse through mud with rain dripping down the back of one's neck.  I felt the desire to collect just one more station, just one more possible adventure before home, so impulsively left the train at Loughton. 





The current building at the Loughton is the third incarnation of a station history beginning in 1856.  I remembered it as being a Grade II listed building but wasn't quite sure, so as I passed through the central ticket hall, I asked the nice chap in the Assistance booth if he knew.  He didn't know the exact grade, but we had a chat about what I was doing, and art/architectural in general which showed a keen soul disguised beneath the uniform.  He might not know exactly why he liked the building, but he does.  It has an elegant grace to the clean lines, and even in the rainy gloom the panels of glass bricks glow with soft blue winter light.

While I popped outside to get the exterior pictures, Nice Chap went to find one of his colleages who had a real passion for the tube for me to talk to.  I confronted further stereotypes by asking a teenage girl in a hoodie to do the pic and she was polite, obliging charm itself.




On my return, his colleague, B, had a present for me - a pamphlet marking the 150th anniversary of the station made up just for staff.  It helped that I was visiting on a quiet day when people had time to talk to me, but also it was lovely to be greeted with enthusiasm about the project.  Some staff have been interested, some indifferent and some hostile, which has made me wary about approaching anyone officially about TW, but my new allies said I should talk to a curator they knew.   B then fetched me some photos of the station in the 1850's and 1930's that I could have.  More presents!  Not to be outdone, my first friend went off to get me an old staff uniform jacket.  Even more presents!  It felt like tribute being laid at my feet.  B has also promised aCD of other images for me next time I pass through the station.   In return I promised to send them some postcards of what I'd been doing.  Heading back west, I was buoyed up on a wave of delight at finding such friendly, generous people (and not simply generous in that they gave me things, more importantly they gave me their time and enthusiasm towards the project) and nearly forgot to get platform shots.  Luckily, a  fellow passenger helped fire off a quick shot through the platform doors.



With a lighter step, managing all my new goodies I made an earlier train at Paddington.

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